Lightweight Cotton Wrapper

I'd been wanting to make an 18th century style wrapper for ages. I had made a wearable mockup in 2023, but didn't have any stash fabrics I wanted to use for the next attempt.

But earlier this year I came across a great fabric for it - not historically accurate, but well suited to a more fantastical version of a wrapper. It was a 100% cotton duvet cover from the thrift store, with a digital print of a foggy evergreen forest, with a dark green lining.

I'd never really considered duvet covers as a fabric source before (despite having seen other people make clothes out of them) because I don't like duvets and never think about them, but I saw a bit of that tree print sticking out as I walked by and it caught my attention. Very convenient how they come with a co-ordinating lining in the same size!

I don’t remember what the size was because I threw out the tag when I first bought it and took it apart, but the resulting fabric panels were each 2.54 metres by 2.15 metres. There was piping around the edge and I saved the cord from that.

This style of simple T shaped wrapper was popular through the entire 18th century, and was an informal "undress" garment for wearing at home. From what I've seen in portraits they appear to have been cut larger in the late 17th and early to mid 18th century, and tighter towards the end of the century.
A lot of sources call them banyans, but from what I understand it's the more fitted ones are banyans and these loose ones are wrappers? Unsure. I have a pinterest board with many examples of both though.

c. 1735-40, The Met.
(Though The Met is not good at dating clothing.)

I came across this pattern diagram years ago on pinterest and couldn't find the source, but then eventually someone on tumblr identified it and found a log of the website it came from on the internet archive.

(source)

It says the images originally came from a book called Histoire du Costume, Volume 10, 1678-1725 by Maurice Leloir. The book text isn't on the website page, only the pictures and captions.

I'm ignoring those two centre front extension bits and just doing the basic tunic shape with a simpler collar style.

Since this kind of pattern is very large and mostly straight lines I didn't make a paper pattern, I just measured and drew the lines on the fabric.

The mockup I'd made a couple years before was a bit smaller than I wanted, but it still fit, so I made the sleeves and upper body a bit looser. 

Here's my very messy sheet of measurements. 

I made the sleeves extra long because I wanted wide turned up cuffs. The underarm area is a bit rounded instead of being a sharp angle, which adds some more room in a similar way to gussets.

I cut out the lining all in one piece, folded at what will be the top and centre front so it's all symmetrical.

I trimmed the bottom edge to be rounded so the corners where it meets the side piece were at right angles, which is important to keep the hem smooth and even. 

Before cutting the outer layer I had to change the tree fabric around a bit. The print was arranged landscape style on the rectangular piece of fabric, which meant I couldn't cut it all in one piece. 

It was also much wider than the length of the wrapper pattern. 

I figured out roughly where I wanted it to be placed in order to best capture the tree gradient, and tore the excess strip off the light edge of the fabric.

I cut the remaining piece in half width-wise, sewed the two light edges together, and trimmed and pressed open that seam.

I now had a rectangle of fabric from which to cut the outer body as one with the trees growing in the proper direction on both the front and back.

It took a lot of fussing to get the lining piece lined up, and as you can see it's slanted because I lined the top fold up with the seam. The grainline must have been a little bit off.

I cut that out using the lining as the pattern, and cut open the centre front up to the seam.

On that top bit I cut in a little ways on either side to make it a T shaped opening, just like I do for my shirts.

Since the tree pieces were too narrow to get the full sleeves in, I pieced on the rest with that strip I'd torn off the top.

I sewed the side seams on both the outer and lining pieces, clipping the inward curve under the arm.

Then I pinned and sewed the entire outer edge right sides together, excluding the cuffs and collar opening. This took quite a while.

I turned it right sides out and pressed that big long seam open, and then into a flat edge.

The sleeve ends were pulled out through the neck hole one at a time and also sewn right sides together.

The collar is a rectangle shoved into the top part of the T shaped opening. You can see the same kind of collar fairly well on this blue damask wrapper in the V&A if you zoom in on the pictures.

Inserting the collar is the one thing I wish I'd done a bit differently. I should have made it in 2 pieces with a seam along the top. Not because I care much if the inner half matches the lining, but because the fabric is thin and a seam there would have added more stability. 

As it is I ended up sticking a scrap of cotton twill tape in there to give it more structure. I also wish I hadn't machine sewn the first edge in, because the corners didn't line up with the seam along the top. I could have lined them up more easily if I'd done it by hand, and it wouldn't have taken very much longer.

 But alas, I machine sewed it on and folded in and whipstitched the rest of the edges.

When I first tried it on the turned up cuffs started to slip down immediately. I don't think this would be as likely to happen with a stiff silk or wool, but this soft cotton doesn't have the structure to hold itself up. I considered pinning them up with little safety pins, but then remembered I have a pair of inherited blue-green rhinestone brooches. 

I stuck them on the cuffs and they're holding them up nicely. Unfortunately they do hang down in front, which causes them to smack into things sometimes, but if I get too annoyed someday I can replace them. If I do that it'll probably be with hooks & bars, or maybe snaps. 

I did consider tacking them up, but that would make washing and ironing more annoying. Not that this will need washing very often at all, but still.

Because of the wonky angle the sleeve piecing is very asymmetrical, but that's ok. The left cuff mostly covers up the most obvious part of it.

I'm very happy with the fit, and I love the colours.

Cutting the lining all in one made it shorter than it could have been if I'd cut the lining in the same way as the outer, but thankfully it's still a good length. A few cm longer would have been nice too, but I could have easily made it too long, which would be treacherous for walking up stairs.

Someday I'll make another one in a more 18th century appropriate fabric.

A Singer 14U557 Serger Repair

 Last year I got a serger for free. It came with no manual, no needles, and the wrong brand name on it. I had a very frustrating time making it work again so I thought I'd make a blog post about it.

The reason it was free is that it was on the backroom shelf in the shop where I work (I do suit alterations) and the manager was doing some decluttering and said I could take it. We already have a perfectly good industrial serger there that practically never gets used, so there was no reason to have a broken domestic one as well.

My first problem with it was that I couldn't find anything about it online. Not a sniff of a "Reliable Millennium Series" domestic serger anywhere. (I looked around the shop for serger manuals, but it was nowhere to be found.)

From the "Millennium Series" mark I figured it was from about the year 2000, but I couldn't find any indication that Reliable ever even made domestic sergers. Their website only shows industrial sergers and they never responded to my email.

This is the text on the back of the machine but it was no help.

I made a post on tumblr asking for help, and several commenters said it looked like a rebadged Singer 14U557. And so it did! Hooray! 

I had not heard of "rebadging", but apparently that's a thing that happens sometimes, and would explain why the Reliable label was just a rubbery thing stuck on with weak glue. So I peeled that off. 
I don't know what the point of a rebadged machine is and I think it's quite irritating that anyone would do that.

Knowing what make of machine it was didn't help with my main problem, however, which was that the needle holes are ridiculously tiny.

All my standard needle shanks are miles too big. 

I said it came with no needles, but it did actually have the broken stump of one old needle in there, which my manager unfortunately lost. (This was before I'd taken it home.)
But before he lost it I'd taken it to Fabricville in a little bag and compared it to every machine needle they had, and all were much too big. 

I tried ordering 2 different packs of basic Singer serger needles, even though I was skeptical as the shanks looked large in the pictures, and it turned out they were indeed too large. Alas.

I found a store with a list of Singer 14U557 supplies that included DBx1 needles, and ooh, another website that says the width of their shanks is a mere 1.63 mm! How promising!

I ordered DBx1 needles and they were still too big for my serger's stupid tiny holes.
But at least they fit the industrial machine I use at work, so they won't go to waste.

But then! One wonderful tumblr commenter suggested POx1 needles, which have 1.28 mm shanks!

There were very few sites with them listed, and the only place they were actually in stock and available to buy was Aliexpress, where the minimum one could order was 5 packs. (That was 8 months ago and the listing I bought from isn't showing up anymore, but there are search results for a couple others.)

So I bought the 5 packs, and they fit! Finally!! My goodness are they ever narrow. The shanks are round.

Standard needle on the right for comparison.
(The length difference will prove to be a problem later.)

I put a couple of them in the machine, turned the hand wheel, and the lower looper bumped into the needle. I was not in the mood to deal with that at the moment, so I avoided it for the next 8 months, before getting back to it just a few days ago.

I thought there must be something wrong with the alignment, but after some more messing around I discovered that the looper only bumped into the needle when the presser foot was down, which meant the foot was pushing the needle out of place. (And upon further reflection, an alignment problem probably would not cause a needle-looper collision.)

The cause seemed to be that the joint of the foot was too loose and wiggled from side to side, making one bumpy edge of the foot push into the needle. I tried squeezing the foot with pliers to make the joint tighter, but it wouldn't budge and I don't know how it got so loose in the first place. Instead I simply filed the offending foot bump down a bit.

That took care of the needle collision problem, but when I threaded the serger and tested it it still would not chain. 
(I would like to mention that when testing these solutions I first try it with the hand wheel to make sure nothing is colliding, and then when I try it with power I wear safety goggles just in case a needle breaks.)

Still under the impression that I had an alignment problem, I took off some parts of the plastic exoskeleton. In fact, I took off more parts than I needed to, but I did oil all the joints I could while I was in there so it was ok.

I watched a video on fixing serger timing and was still puzzled at first, because it looked like my loopers were more or less in the correct positions. But then I noticed the needles in the video were much higher than mine.

The highest needle position in the video.

And the highest on mine...

Evidently my needles were too long, which made them too low, which meant they weren't catching the threads they were supposed to on the way down.

Raising the needle bar was easy, as the screw that held it in place was accessible from the side where I'd taken the light cover off, and could be loosened with a small allen key.

But unfortunately I couldn't raise it very much - it only had room to go a few millimetres higher than the original position.

It was still not quite enough, and things still weren't catching properly.

So I figured the only thing left to do was try to shorten the needles. They were a good 5 mm longer than the standard ones, so I marked the difference on with marker and tried both a hacksaw and a metal file on it. Unfortunately both tools had about the same effect, which was practically nothing.

So then I tried snapping the top off the shank with 2 pairs of pliers (while wearing safety goggles of course) and it popped off very easily! Hooray!

Now my needles were high enough! In fact, at first they were a little too high and I had to lower them a smidge. 

Around this time I switched to just using one needle.
It took some more fiddling to get things working right. The tension was all wonky and I'd also threaded one part slightly wrong, but eventually I got it! 

WOOHOOOOOO! FINALLY!!!

I may try re-lowering the needle bar sometime, since it's easier to snap off a longer needle nub than a shorter one, but as long as I position the needles at the right height it's fine this way for now.

I have no idea if, somewhere out there in the vast & confusing world of needle sizes, there's one with the same width but a shorter length, and seeing as I already have 5 packs of these I do not care.

I haven't gotten it to work with 2 needles yet, but I also haven't tried very hard because I don't need 2 needles. The second needle is only really important if you're going to use the serger to sew seams, which I have no intention of ever doing. Much better to finish the edges first and then sew the pieces together.

The blade was extremely dull so I removed it. I may try sharpening it on my oilstone someday, but I don't really think I'll need it. I'll only be using this to finish the edges on cut pieces, and the ends of fabric before washing. As long as I'm careful to cut with nice even seam allowances and put the pieces through the machine at a steady distance from the edge it should be fine. 
Plus, it saves me the trouble of having to get 4 cones of thread instead of 3.

There are a couple of other minor broken bits, but they don't affect the functionality. One of the little tabs that holds the scrap catcher on is broken off, but it still stays in place with just the one, and anyways if I don't have a blade I don't need a catcher.

The inner one is broken, but the end is held in by leaning against the machine.

The presser foot lever also has one of its 2 tabs broken off, but it still works fine. I turned it around to have the non-broken one face the front.

The one thing I would like to change is the thread holder attachment, because it's very unstable. It's held in place by one tiny little brass knob thingy that fits into a hole in the plastic casing, and the slightest bump can knock it off, especially if the thread cones are very uneven sizes. 

I don't want to glue it on permanently, as I think that would be bad for storage and transportation, but it would be nice to have a more secure way of clipping it on. Still, not a super high priority for the moment. As long as it's sitting still on a table it shouldn't fall off during regular use.

All in all, I think this serger will suit my needs perfectly! And I'm very glad it was free, as I've paid for it with time, effort, and needle money. Though all together I probably spent about 100 CAD on various needles, which is still only a fraction of the price that sergers usually are.

For most garments I prefer to line or flat fell the seams, but I like using serged edges for pants and pyjama bottoms. Previously I'd use the industrial at work, which is only threaded with black and which always needs to be un-buried from the stack of boxes covering it. Or I'd use my mother's if I needed a lighter colour, which requires a bus trip across town. So this will be much more convenient!

I hope this blog post may be helpful to anyone who has similar serger troubles.