I made another waistcoat! I finished this one on September 22nd and am mostly happy with how it turned out, though the wrinkled shoulders do vex me.bright green waistcoat.
made two collared late 18th century waistcoats before and wasn't happy with the fit of either of them, so I drafted a new pattern for this one. It's better but I still need to tweak it a bit.
I'm currently working on an embroidered waistcoat that's the same pattern shape, so this one was sort of a trial run, since I hadn't sewn one of these with historically accurate construction methods before.
The Cut of Men's Clothes, but I had to make mine much curvier to fit around my hips.
I pieced the back out of 6 scraps of brown linen. One of these seams is two selvedges butted together and whipstitched, because this linen had nice firm selvedges. You can just barely see it on the left side of this photo.
(I also pieced a little bit of different linen to the topmost corner of each of the silk fronts, to make the cutting layout more efficient. This was not at all necessary, I just really like piecing and saving on fabric.)
|All the seams in this photo are hand sewn, just because.|
|My welts. I folded the edges in around the buckram and|
hand stitched the lining on the back.
|I cut a slit, turned back the edges, and whipstitched the pockets in.|
|Attaching the pocket welt. |
It's so much easier to line up stripes this way!
|I hand sewed all the scraps on one at a time.|
|The inside of the finished collar.|
The one other time I made a waistcoat with these little lapels I was very confused as to how they were stiffened, but I have since obtained a copy of Costume Close Up, and learned that the lapels aren't stiffened at all! The buckram on this style of waistcoat stops just above where the buttons end.
I wasn't sure how exactly the buckram was supposed to be attached with this sort of waistcoat, so I tried tacking it to the lining this time instead. It worked well enough but I don't think I'll do it that way again, as it made the lining a little bit awkward to sew in along the front edge.
|Front lining with the buckram about to be stitched into place.|
|Edges all pressed in and lined up nicely.|
|I sewed the lapels carefully, with tiny stitches.|
The rest of the edge was done with le point a rabattre sous la main, as usual.
I could easily have cut button covers from my remaining yardage (I have about a meter and a half left) but I decided to try teeny tiny matching deaths head buttons instead. I used the second smallest bone moulds from Burnley & Trowbridge, and the finished buttons are about 12mm.
They were quick to cover, and not difficult to do, but holding onto them did cause some finger cramps.
|My tiny buttons with subtle X's on them.|
|The waistcoat on this page was dated c. 1800-1805, but there were very similar buttons on an earlier waistcoat.|
They're sewn by hand with yellow DMC cotton pearl.
|The outside of the fronts.|
|And the inside.|
|That slight wobbliness along the front edge is why I'm not|
going to try tacking the interfacing to the lining again.
What the item is: A man’s waistcoat
How it fits the challenge: It’s pretty plain and informal, and I do intend to wear it for everyday.
Material: Silk taffeta striped in dull yellow, beige, and off white, brown linen for the back, pale green cotton sateen for the lining, and two different silk scraps that were used in the collar lining.
Pattern: My own, based mostly on photos of extant originals.
Year: c. 1785-95
Notions: Eight 11mm bone button moulds, muslin I made buckram from, DMC cotton pearl for the buttonholes, silk thread, linen thread, fine linen yarn.
How historically accurate is it? Pretty good! It’s hand sewn except for 3 seams (the pocket bags, and the CB seam of the lining), I think I got the cut pretty good, and the materials are mostly accurate except for the lining. All the piecing makes it more historical too.
Hours to complete: 25:19 - less than I expected!
First worn: September 22nd, 2019
Total cost: I bought the button blanks, the silk, and some of the thread. The lining was from a fabric swap and everything else was given to me. I used so little of the silk that I doubt the whole thing came to any more than $20 Canadian.
like you see on so many extant waistcoats. I'll also change the centre back of the collar so it's tapered just a little more, as I think it sticks out from my neck the tiniest bit too much.
(I am now working on the waistcoat for my 1730's suit, but still haven't started the breeches.)