This one's an 18th century style I've wanted to try for quite a long time, where the collar fastens with a ribbon instead of buttons. I have a section with all the examples I've found on my Shirts pinterest board. Usually the wearers are in a partially undressed state, but there are a few more formal ones where the ribbon can be seen peeking out from under a stock. They appear to have been most common in the early to mid 18th century, but there are a few examples from later.
I suspect this evolved from late 17th century styles, when they had those large colourful bows tied in front of their collars. I don't know for sure, since I haven't researched that era, but it looks like the shirts in this portrait and this one are tied with a ribbon in the same way as these later shirts. I have no idea how that worked with the lace cravats they also wore though.
|The hem gussets.|
|Young man with a violin by Jan Kupecký, c. 1706.|
green wool 1730's breeches.
sleeve links with the pinwheel design on them.
|Portrait of a man by Nicolas de Largillière, 1703.|
|Worn with my 1730's brocade waistcoat.|
|Sir Charles Howard by unknown artist, 1738.|
Being all rectangles (and one heart), it qualifies for the Geometry challenge for the Historical Sew Monthly.
What the item is: A man’s shirt.
How it fits the challenge: It’s all rectangles and squares! (Except the little heart shaped reinforcement, which is a square that’s had a little bit trimmed off 3 corners.)
Material: White plain weave linen from Pure Linen Envy.
Pattern: None, just a list of dimensions.
Year: Early 18th century, but it could work all the way to the mid 18th century, and probably for the late 17th century too.
Notions: Linen thread, vintage crochet cotton for the buttonholes, a short length of silk ribbon.
How historically accurate is it? Pretty good! The cut and construction is accurate to the best of my knowledge, and it’s all hand sewn with linen thread. I didn’t add a laundry mark though. I also don’t know for sure if the heart shaped bosom slit reinforcement was around this early, since I’ve only seen examples on a few late 18th century extant shirts, and earlier shirts are even more rare and there aren’t many pictures of them to be found.
Hours to complete: I neglected to keep a time sheet, but probably 30-something.
First worn: May 3rd, 2022
Total cost: About $35 CAD